Product Description
Words like “organic,” “seasonal,” and “local” are on everyone’s mind, but how do we integrate food politics into a daily practice that is convenient, affordable, and delicious?

Sustainable chef and caterer Louisa Shafia shows eco-conscious home cooks how to green their cuisine by making earth-friendly food choices, sourcing animal products ethically and responsibly, supporting local food, and reducing one’s carbon footprint through urban gardening, preserving, composting, and more.

Promoting simple, delicious meals and green lifestyle ideas, LUCID FOOD celebrates the pleasures of in-season cooking that is healthy, honest, pure, free of additives, and transparently made, from farm to table.

Lucid Food: Cooking for an Eco-Conscious Life

This article came from: Lucid Food: Cooking for an Eco-Conscious Life at Simple Living, Sustainable Living.

It’s really quite easy to grow sprouts. You can use wide-mouth canning jars, with screening cut to size to fit inside the outer jar lid. You can do the same thing with any fairly wide-mouth jar, a rubber band, and screening, cheesecloth, an old stocking, or some other covering that will allow air and water (but not tiny seeds) to pass freely.

Put a tablespoon of seeds into the jar, and fill it with water to cover the seeds. Don’t use seeds meant for planting if there is any chance they have been treated with chemicals, as is commonly done by the non-organic businesses.

Put the bottle in a fairly dark, reasonably warm place, for overnight or for about 8 hours if your impulse to sprout struck in the morning. Many things I have read suggest that the whole sprouting process needs to be warm, but alfalfa, broccoli, and sunflower sprouts were very accommodating in our motor home in cold weather, where nothing was toasty. They just grew more slowly. Some other things may be more demanding about their temperature.

After about 8 hours, pour out the excess water, give the sprouts a small drink of fresh water, and set the bottle on its side, tilted somewhat downward so the water can drain out. I often put mine on a dish drainer. Somewhere near a sink is good, because you should remember to give them a drink at least twice a day. I must admit that I sometimes forget, usually the sprouts are still okay but occasionally I have to throw out a batch and start over. The seeds like light as they grow, but not direct sunlight.

Eating the Sprouts

Within a day (for sunflower seeds) or several days (for most seeds), the seeds are ready to eat. Eat them! People say that they will stay fresh in the refrigerator for up to a week, but ours never last that long. If you do refrigerate them, be sure they are quite dry before you put the jar in the fridge; otherwise, the ones in the bottom of the jar will go slimy.

If you wish, you can rinse the seeds in a large bowl of water and many hulls will float off and others will stay at the bottom, and then you can put the sprouts back in the jar. I like to do this with alfalfa after 3 or 4 days, but I don’t do it with anything else.

Add raw sprouts to salads. We use them as topping for eggs, casseroles, soups, sandwiches, whatever.

Beans that are sprouted are then usually cooked, though mung beans, lentils, and some others are good raw. They will take less time to cook than before they were sprouted – sometimes a lot less time – and they become more digestible.

You may have heard that there can be some toxins in alfalfa sprouts. From what I have read, the dangers have been rather overblown. Be sure to use clean water and to wash your jars and screens or cloths between batches. It’s a good idea to let them dry too, though I don’t always bother.

Wheat, sunflower seeds, and other grains can be grown in trays of soil for fresh winter greens. See the three-part series on this blog: an illustrated guide to micro greens.

Seed will last several years, especially if stored in cool, dark places. Your local health food store probably sells seeds for sprouting; I also get mine online from the Sprout House, which also sells some nice sprouting trays and provides good information.

This article came from: It’s Easy to Grow Sprouts at Simple Living, Sustainable Living.

Discover One of the Best Eco Friendly Products You Could Ever Use

By Raymond Hamilton

Let’s face it, these days we are surrounded by eco friendly products, some of which are good while others are not very eco friendly at all! Personally I have one favorite that I think is among the very best of them.

My vote for the best and most accessible eco friendly product goes to enviromentally friendly water bottles. Now bear with me and let me explain why they are just so important.

In America each day, over sixty million plastic bottles are thrown away can you believe, with bottled water accounting for much of this. This contributes to filling up our already full landfills with more unnecessary toxic waste.

Most plastic bottles contain many harmful chemicals that will leach into the contents over time. Just think how long these products sit on the shelves before you buy them.

Quality enviromentally friendly water bottles are made from glass which is 100% recyclable and lasts forever or stainless steel certified to be BPA free so no chemicals can leach into the water. The best also have no chemical lining and no plastic lids either.

Bottled water is one of the most un-eco friendly products around! In most cases it is no better for you than the tap variety, many times coming from exactly the same polluted source and containing the same amount of toxic chemicals.

Pure clean healthy water is the most important substance on earth and the quality of it greatly affects our health and well-being, making the ideal situation to have some kind of home filtration and bottling your own water when you go out!

So I rest my case and hope that you can see why of all the eco friendly products out there, I believe that these water bottles can have the greatest impact and are accessible to everyone, improving not only the health of our planet, but ours as well.

Visit my website today if you would like to learn more about the type of eco friendly water bottles that I personally recommend and use.

Discover the best eco friendly water bottles today.

Ray Hamilton is a dedicated advocate and researcher of the incredible benefits of safe, clean healthy filtered water. Discover which products Ray recommends after extensive research.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Raymond_Hamilton

http://EzineArticles.com/?Discover-One-of-the-Best-Eco-Friendly-Products-You-Could-Ever-Use&id=2520833

This article came from: Do You Use an Eco-Friendly Water Bottle? at Simple Living, Sustainable Living.

Making bread by hand takes time, but not all that much. Sometimes I’ve done it after dinner, while half-way watching television, and we’d have hot bread for a bedtime snack. (We currently have a bread machine, so we usually use it.)

When Kelly and I first met, he taught me to make bread using the sponge method. I’ve since tried a lot of bread recipes, and making bread this way remains my favorite because you only have to get your hands into the dough once. Now, we grind our grains with our Vitamix right before making the bread. Talk about fresh!  Making bread from a recipe can be a little confusing or messy the first couple of times, but you will soon get the hang of it. This recipe makes two loaves.

Start with

2 cups lukewarm water (too hot will kill yeast)
2 T dry yeast  (can be reduced to 1½ if you prefer)
3 T sweetener  (honey, molasses, brown sugar, whatever)
1½ t salt
2 cups whole wheat (or whole spelt) flour

Put the warm water in a large mixing bowl and dissolve the yeast, sweetener and salt. Add the flour and stir till well mixed.

Put in a warm place to rise; if you have a gas oven with a pilot light that keeps it warm but not too hot, that is a good place. This first rising will create what’s called a sponge. It needs to rise for about half an hour, but is forgiving of variations in this time.

Lightly grease your bread pans and set them aside. Stir down the sponge again and add, stirring as you add the flour:

¼ cup oil may be substituted
2 cups whole wheat  or whole spelt flour
2 cups of any kind of flour (wheat, barley, rice, white, etc. I often just use more of whatever I’m using)

Lightly flour the counter where you are going to knead the bread. When most of the flour in the bowl has been stirred into the dough, dump everything onto the counter.

Then knead it for several minutes, by pushing the heels of your hands into the dough, then turning the dough a quarter-turn toward you and pushing your hands again, and so on. You want enough flour on the counter under your dough to keep the dough from sticking to the counter, so keep adding a very little flour as needed.

Divide the dough in half – I just cut it with a knife – and then knead each half till it’s smooth. Put it in a bread pan, and push it down with your knuckles till the height of the dough in the pan is pretty much the same everywhere.

If you want raisin bread, after dividing the dough, roll one out till it’s about the width of your bread pan and however long it turns out to be. You may need more flour on the counter under the dough for this process. If you don’t have a rolling pin, use a jar. Once the dough is rolled out, sprinkle on raisins and cinnamon. That’s all I usually use, but for a richer loaf, brown sugar, nuts, and/or a little butter or oil can be added. Then roll up the dough, keeping it pretty tight, and squoosh it into the bread pan,  leveling it with your knuckles.

Let the bread rise in a warm place for 20 minutes to about half an hour. Cookbooks often say, till the dough has doubled in size but I don’t always wait that long. Because yeast doesn’t like a draft, if there is any air movement where you put your loaves to rise, just cover them with a clean dish towel. I usually put my on top of my stove, with a towel, and then turn on my oven to preheat to 350 degrees.

If the counter is a mess to clean up, just put a little water on the places where the dough stuck to the counter, and within a couple of minutes it will be much easier to scrub.

Bake the bread at 350 for about 45 minutes. Take out of the bread pans — and eat!

Some recipes say not to cut it till it cools, and it’s true that it’s more apt to fall apart when it’s hot, but what can be yummier than fresh bread? In any case, do take it out of the pans as it tends to sweat if left in them.

This article came from: My Homemade Bread Recipe at Simple Living, Sustainable Living.

Ways to Be Green in the Kitchen

By Lindsey Maestas

Living in today’s economy, everyone wants to save money. Saving on energy costs can be a large chunk of change when planning a budget-not to mention it can save our earth! Although building green can save money in the long run and over time, it can be more costly in the building process than standard construction. And although green products are more expensive than standard products, they are becoming more affordable. The kitchen is typically the most used room in the house, so let’s start conserving energy where we use the most energy.

Use less water.

One way to be greener in the kitchen is by using less water. Low-flow faucets are available that will limited water pressure which will cut down on unnecessary water consumption. We are all familiar with the automatic faucets in public restrooms. There are similar products for homes that will only turn on when hands are under the sensor. Options for water-saving faucets include self-closing faucets, metered valve faucets, sensor faucets, and more.

Manufacturers that are offering WaterSense-certified faucets include Delta, Moen, American Standard, Brizo and Symmons. These manufacturers are meeting the water-saving standards by using special aerators that deliver more airflow so the lower water flow is not noticeable.

Use the classic work triangle.

The work triangle has been around for years. It is a formula that lays out the refrigerator, stove and sink within a triangle that creates an efficient work flow. In a kitchen plan, each side of the triangle should be between 4 and 9 feet. The total of all the sides should be between 12 and 26 feet. This ensures ease of motion between the stove, the sink and the refrigerator, which in turn can be more eco-friendly. For example, while cooking, you should be able to pull food from the refrigerator, place it on the counter and turn to the stove and sink very easily without obstructions. This will most likely mean you will have the refrigerator door open for a short amount of time. Also, the stove should be far enough from the refrigerator so the heat from the stove does not cause the refrigerator to work harder.

Buy ENERGY STAR appliances.

Energy efficient appliances can save a homeowner about one third of their energy bill. When shopping for appliances look for the ENERGY STAR label and know that all ENERGY STAR products have met strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency).

Add a recycling station.

We always seem to designate a place in the kitchen for our trash can, but why not use some kitchen space to recycle? All it takes is one or two 10-gallon trash cans to cut down on the amount of trash that will end up at the landfill. Be creative in what containers you use to sort your recycling. Many retailers sell multiple shapes and sizes in recycling bins. You’ll be amazed at how much longer you can go without taking out the trash!

So there you have it… 4 ways to be greener in the kitchen. I imagine if everyone does what they can to conserve energy the earth will be a much better place for generations to come.

I want to carefully guide my clients through the process of buying and/or selling, while offering them the tools they need in order to make informed decisions. Call me to schedule a showing or an appointment: 615-714-3665 or visit my site: http://www.YourNashvilleHomeFinder.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lindsey_Maestas

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This article came from: Ways to Be Green in the Kitchen at Simple Living, Sustainable Living.

There is an excellent website, the Environmental Working Group (EWG) where you can t ype in your zip code and find out what is in your water — they have analyzed almost 20 million records obtained from state water officials and found 316 pollutants in the drinking water from 45 states.

Go through their step-by-step process of choosing a water filter:

• Step 1. Decide what is most important to you.
• Step 2. Consider what type of filter would work best for you.
• Step 3. Determine what contaminants you need to remove.
• Step 4. Find a filter.

This site gets very technical for those who want it, but it is written clearly enough for you to find out what you need.  I specially liked their table in step 2.

By the way, all that research costs them and if you end up buying a water filter through their links to Amazon, that helps support their work. I’ve done this.

This article came from: Filter Your Drinking Water at Simple Living, Sustainable Living.

You can see it at the link,and I’ll add a few comments — I use either a commercial yogurt with a live culture or the brand of dry yogurt starter mentioned in the article, Yogourmet. That’s the same brand as the yogurt maker I use, and clicking on its picture will take you to it at Amazon.

If your yogurt turns out kind of stringy-slimy, it’s gotten some other strains in it. I don’t know if it’s bad for you but I don’t like it so I used to toss it out when that happened occasionally. It used to happen when I used homemade methods for keeping the yogurt hot but since I bought this thing you see, it is rarer… or maybe it hasn’t happened at all, come to think of it.

I’ve had mine for five or six years. It’s not cheap, but mine seems as good as new, so it’s a good investment.

I don’t add sweetener, which the recipe at the link mentions. I don’t usually use powdered milk either.

If you get one of these, I suggest you consider also getting a spare container. We often have one batch in the refrigerator and then I’ll make a new batch about the time the old one gets low, often using starter from that old one.

I like not supporting the plastics industry by not buying all those tubs, and buying the milk to make the yogurt is way cheaper than buying yogurt. When I’m rushed I don’t tend to make a lot of yogurt, but when I have time, I do like to do it.

This article came from: Make Your Own Yogurt at Simple Living, Sustainable Living.

Without giving it any thought, I moved it back to where I was used to seeing it.

The next day, there it was again, between this burners.

Had to be something my husband was doing.What could he be up to?

This old gas cooktop has pilot lights between both sets of front and back burners, and Kelly was experimenting with keeping the kettle over a pilot light.

He’s found that it reduced the time to make a pot of tea and (more important to him) it saves a little energy.

This article came from: Move the Teakettle a Few Inches at Simple Living, Sustainable Living.

Here is our VitaMix. Looking good for seven years of near-daily use. Besides making smoothies, salad dressings, soups, and the like, we use it to grind wheat berries for homemade bread  and of course peanuts like today.

Kelly measures two cups of each kind into the blender. Unlike most recipes for homemade peanut butter, this method does not add oil. The roasted nuts give up enough oil. Then while it is running, he uses the tamper that came with the blender and pushes down at various angles. It makes a good bit of noise!

You can see in the picture on the right that the lower portion is mixed and the upper portion isn’t yet. Eventually it pretty much all is, and he stops running the motor at that point, as the machine could technically be burned out by running it too long. We always end up with a few peanuts not completely mixed, no problem.

Here you see the final result. We find that it  stores for weeks or months in the refrigerator. As you might guess from the volume, Kelly considers peanut butter one of the basic food groups! This is yummier than most any you can buy, and more economical.

And just in case you’re interested, here is a list of Vita-Mix blenders at Amazon. Some of them cost less than we paid seven years ago!

This article came from: Homemade Peanut Butter at Simple Living, Sustainable Living.

If the price of gas and electricity is getting you down, build a simple rocket stove and cook with twigs!  It’s free and it’s sustainable.  Cooking with a rocket stove is another big step towards freedom from extortionate energy bills and the multinational giants ransacking our planet and our bank accounts.

A rocket stove can be used outside in the summer, on your terrace or balcony, or indoors in the winter, hooked up to a chimney with a hood.  Because of the insulated interior, this stove gives off far less smoke and carbon monoxide than a normal fire.  Only when igniting and putting out the fire is there really any smoke worth speaking of.  This simple design creates a strong air suction that makes the cooking flame very intense with just a few twigs.  Using bigger and more twigs gives a stronger flame which will heat your pans faster than a gas hob.  You can reduce the flame by reducing the amount or size of the twigs.

I built this rocket stove in an afternoon, using the information and explanation video at http://rocketstoves.org

You can download the Aprovecho Research Centre booklet ‘Capturing Heat’ that the video was based on here:

http://rocketstoves.org/capturing_heat/pdf/capturing_heat.pdf

In it you will find plans not only for a rocket stove like this one but also a passive cooker heat box (I’ll explain that later, it’s very useful to use in tandem with the rocket stove), a solar cooker and a large bread oven.

My rocket stove is very rudimentary.  I’ve never done metal work before so I was as new to this as the next person. You’ll need to forgive the unintentional advertising for the sunflower cooking oil…the 25 litre / 5 gallon tin was perfect for my stove!  In Europe it’s quite difficult to find this size barrel and you may need to go begging at the back door of your local restaurant for their empties.  If you are worried about the paint on the barrel then put it in a fire to burn away the thin layer of paint.  However, once I got my stove going, the main part of the barrel, being well insulated with ash, doesn’t get hot at all, only the top edge gets charred.

In the photo below you can see the 25 litre tin of sunflower oil I found dumped next to the public garbage bins in my neighbourhood.  It needed a bit of a scrub to remove the excess oil and a bit of rust that had started to build up.  Inside this barrel will go my old iron stove pipe, one straight piece and one elbow piece, that I got out of my cellar.  It has a diameter of 13cm (approx 4 inches).  In the video the chap uses a thin tin stove pipe that he then changed his mind about as it can release toxins.  My stove pipe is a tough old iron thing that had to be cut with an electric metal disk saw. However, cutting it with a metal handsaw would have been possible, had I been brave…

The tools you’ll need:

Leather gloves to protect your hands – without them you will gash yourself!
A felt tip pen for marking where you’ll cut
A chisel and hammer to make the first hole in the tin before cutting
Tin snips to cut the tin barrel
A metal file to smooth off the rough edges of the cut tin
Either an electric disk saw for cutting the iron stove pipe or a good metal hand saw (and plenty of patience)
Pliers to grip, bend and squeeze the tin into shape
A ruler, tape measure or piece of wood to measure the length of stove pipe

Step by Step with Photos

The first thing to cut in the barrel is the bottom hole where the wood will be fed into the stove pipe.  This is done easily by using your pen to trace around the diametre of your stove pipe placed 5cm (approx 2 inches) above the bottom of the barrel.  This gap is to prevent the base of the rocket stove overheating.  Next, take the hammer and chisel, hold the barrel so it doesn’t slip, give the chisel a good whack in the centre of the traced circle to create a hole in the tin, then work the tin snips into that hole, cut towards the edge, then all around the edge till the hole is complete.  Cutting slightly inside the traced line will give you a neater, tighter fit with the stove pipe, if it’s too small you can always make it bigger, but not vice versa.

After cutting the bottom hole, it’s time to cut the top of the tin off…If you’re not sure of cutting a straight line all the way around, trace one first with your pen using a stick or measure to guide your pen evenly.

The edges of the tin will be very rough and must be filed down carefully so as not to cut your hands.

The tin snips can sometimes get a bit stuck so I’d occasionally pull the tin apart with my pliers so as to make cutting easier.

And back to filing off those nasty rough edges…

Once the edges were filed, I wanted to create a rounded-off top edge and so I set about bending the edge of the cut tin inwards, gripping only about four millimetres of tin for the inward folding flap.

I then squeezed that narrow flap down, creating a fold in the tin that will not cut the hands.  This top ridge needs to be pretty even so check it with a level if you’re a perfectionist – which I’m not – I just gave it a whack with a hammer here and there where it went up too high and checked by eye that the cooking grill sat evenly on it.

And here below, an exciting moment….slotting in the stove pipe elbow…it juts out of the tin’s exterior by about 4 to 5cm (measuring at the top edge).

Here’s the view of that exciting moment from above…

Then I slotted in my straight length of stove pipe onto the elbow.  I wanted the central pipe to sit about two or three cm below the rim of the outer tin, so I rested a thin length of wood from the outer edge to the central column, inclined it down the pipe a couple of cm and marked that point with a pen.

Then I took that same thin strip of wood, drew a little line on it the same length for the stove pipe I’d marked, and then continued drawing the line around the pipe using the length of wood and its marker to keep the line even all the way round.  A tape measure could also have been used, but I was too lazy to go and get it out of my tool box….

True to my usual methods, this was all guess-work.  When fitted in place the entire vertical length of the inner stove pipe, from its top edge to the base inside the elbow piece is 32cm.

The line I drew was rough but accurate enough, thanks to guiding my hand with the length of wood… I then got David to cut it with the electric disk saw while I held it in place.  The disk saw gives off a lot of sparks and you must protect your eyes with goggles as well as using gloves and keeping your hands well away from the cutting area when you hold or clamp the pipe down so it won’t move during the cutting.

Once it was cut I slotted it into the elbow piece.  So this inner pipe sits a couple of cm below the outer edge of the rocket stove so that the flames don’t get blocked by the bottom of your saucepan.

Just in case, I got David to file off with the disk saw the enamel and paint where the pipe comes through the bottom hole because I was in two minds about filling the slightly uneven gaps (I’m no expert with those tin snips!) with some type of soldered metal….but in the end, the ash insulation is tightly packed and doesn’t fall out as long as you don’t knock the stove around.  In this photo below you can see how the final stove pipe looks with elbow and vertical piece slotted together.

Now I filled the gap between the stove pipe and its outer tin casing with ash from last winter’s log fire, being sure to pack it down tight and push it firmly under the elbow pipe.

I filled it to a level that left a depth of about 8 or 9cm from the outer tin’s top rim to the surface of the ash.

Then I hunted around for the top piece of metal to slot over the stove pipe to keep it snugly in place along with the ash.  The original lid of the tin exterior was no good….so I grabbed another lid from an old tin of paint and cut that up instead.  Again, if you want to get rid of the layer of paint on the can, burn it first in a fire.

I measured the diameter of the rocket stove’s outer tin and cut out a circle from the tin lid with the same diameter.  Luckily for me, the interior line of the lid was almost exactly the same diameter so I didn’t need to draw a line.  Had I not had that stroke of luck, I’d have put the rocket stove onto the lid, traced a line around its base, and cut the circle a few milimetres inside the line to compensate for the difference in diameter between the outside of the tin and the inside.

I left three little flaps to fold down and give the lid a bit of extra anchorage.  I filed down the rough edges and with the pliers bent the outer edge slightly downwards so that it would curve down into the ash instead of curving up where it could get caught or scratch.

I then placed a piece of stove pipe in the center of the lid, using my pen as a measure to gauge the length between the outer edge and the pipe, making sure it was even all round and therefore centered properly.  Then I held it firmly and traced a line around the pipe for where I was going to cut the hole.

Here below is the final traced line, ready to cut out.  I placed it in the rocket stove just to check I hadn’t completely bodged the diameter, it’s a rough job, but good enough.

Out come the chisel and hammer again.  I whacked a hole in the center…

…got my tin snips out again and cut the circle out…

….filed off the rough edges and slotted it into place over the central stove pipe.  This keeps the pipe in place and holds the ashes down.  I did a rough job (I’m a beginner after all) and there is a little ash around some of the edges still, but this doesn’t affect the efficiency of my stove at all.

Now the final touches, putting in the stove’s twig shelf.  You cannot just put the twigs straight into the stove pipe without a shelf because they need to be raised in order to allow air to flow underneath, as with a vent, to get the fire going.  I could have used the tin top but I used another scrap of tougher tin I found lying around.  This shelf has to be long enough to hold the twigs but not so long that it intrudes into the bent part of the pipe’s elbow, that’s where the flames belong.

I cut it with folded-down edges so that it could be wedged into the pipe quite firmly.

I gave it a final tap with the hammer to push it in snugly.  I should really have allowed part of the shelf to jut out to give the twigs an extra platform, but as I use bricks to support the ends of the sticks I didn’t bother.

And hey presto, the stove is ready to fire up – that is, once you’ve put the oven/barbecue grill on top and removed the curious cat…

This pot is perfect for two reasons: one, it is black, so when the bottom gets blackened by the flame it doesn’t show, and two, it’s cast iron, which retains the heat.  So once you’ve got your soup or rice boiling you can remove it from the fire and place it in an insulated box where the heat gets trapped and the soup continues cooking.

An insulated box can be made by putting one smaller wooden box on little legs inside a bigger box, filling the gap with ash (cold ash, naturally) or sawdust, boxing it in, and covering with a lid that is also insulated.  This way you don’t need to stand over your rocket stove for long.

You cannot leave a rocket stove to cook the way you can with gas or electric hobs.  Rather than seeing this as a disadvantage it might be worth thinking of all the lives that can be saved, as leaving pans on the hob is one of the biggest causes of house fires.  If you leave a rocket stove unattended it will simply go out after about five minutes.  Therefore, learning a few tricks with insulated passive cooker boxes and keeping your blackened utensils away from other dishes, will make life with the rocket stove a lot simpler.

David had to get cracking because I wanted my dinner…he made me a marvellous curry…

The twigs can be set alight by placing a handful of straw in the pipe’s elbow, adding more straw if they are slow to take.  With long sticks, bricks can be placed underneath them for support.  When you want to put the twigs out, have a little pot with sand handy to plonk them into.

And finally, below is a nice view of the flames from above…

This article came from: Rocket Stove: Make One and Cook with Twigs at Simple Living, Sustainable Living.